To finish up, I routed the slot for my T-molding using the Whiteside setup which includes a 1/4″ shank  as well as the 6700A Slot Cutter.

The other issue is that I modified my CP to include 3 additional buttons but the print shop uses a ‘master’ template from which they cut all of their Nintendo-style cabinet control panels. All rights reserved. I contacted ‘Twisted Quarter’ where I purchased the coin door and they confirmed that it required a 12V supply which made all the difference. If I had to buy wood for the base, I’d likely pick up some 1×4 material such as pine or poplar. Bookmark the permalink. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. I’ll post a video of the machine in action soon. Things are really starting to take shape at this point. Hey, it’s my cabinet. I didn’t want a gloss finish, but this colour only came in gloss. Here is the proof that Escape Pod sent me after I sent them my artwork files… Getting excited! Response time consistently took 2-3 days via email – quicker via phone. In short, build what you like and what speaks to your tastes. Respect goes out as well to the guys over at Twisted Quarter in Florida, and Retroactive Arcade in Alberta where I picked up a lot of my parts. Not the one from Donkey Kong Country though, but the old school Donkey Kong who kidnapped the princess and did battle with Mario. Now the coin door really pops when the lights are out. Just a few odds and ends today. The Adventures of Captain Comic. Tackling the wiring took a bit of time to map everything out and make as neat a job as possible out of everything.

When I contacted Escape Pod to express my dissatisfaction, my contact’s response was that he didn’t oversee shipping of products.

I would avoid that approach as the router will give you a perfect factory look and finish as you can see. I admire guys that can just see something in their mind and then build it without any plans to speak of. I won’t sell it or send it to anyone in respect of the artist’s work. This time, I purchased a brand-new 1 1/8″ spade bit with nice sharp teeth. Here is my Donkey Kong Arcade Design using Google Sketchup: Respect goes out to Chance and Gaetan for meticulously measuring out and drafting up the plans for a classic Nintendo cabinet. ( Log Out /  I modified and re-formatted his print to work with my cabinet and recreated the entire image in Adobe Illustrator – a painstaking process but it was well worth the effort. I ended up removing the T-mold in some spots, trimming the vinyl along the edge as I did on the first side and then tapping the T-mold back in place. Basically I made a jig using some scrap material the same thickness as my back panel (3/4″). To get around this, I glued and screwed batons on the interior of the cabinet to which I could then affix my panels using screws from the inside. rubber mallet, there were a few spots where it pushed the finished artwork up a bit. From there, it’s kind of like reverse-engineering an end-goal. The free version is loaded with features and there are enough YouTube videos out there to get you designing quite intuitively in no time. Of course where you have Mario, you must have a Princess and this game delivers. The SPACEBAR makes Mario jump. I centre-punched each hole and then using a 1/8″ spade bit, drilled out all the material in my MDF. When it arrived, it was crushed and not useable. The key here is to have a scrap of wood on your drill-press table below your working piece so that you don’t get blow-out (aka an ugly hole). You can see on the side art that I started to run out of ink, but this was enough to satisfy my OCD and give me a good feel for the finished product and insure my measurements were spot on. I love this. First, I have to give credit where credit is due. Really, there is no need for swivel-type casters on an arcade. For your top coat, paint horizontally if possible and let gravity help you vs work against you. Today I installed the coin door, the speaker panel, the control panel and the fluorescent light in the marquee.

It wasn’t long before the house was filled with the gleeful screams and excitement of little voices being chased the Ms. Pacman ghosts and bold announcements of which ‘fruit’ would be next as they conquered level after each tasty level. I was cautiously optimistic after I mounted the control panel in place. Researching a cabinet that suits your style and space is a pretty exciting and key part of the process. The last step for the day was to spray a test piece with the Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Gloss Orange. Thanks as well to my new friend Robert Fraser over at RAD (Retro Arcade Designs) in Ontario for both sending me a beautiful ‘Vader’ (all black) Atari 2600 and kicking off my inspiration for this build. I then had to go back along the edge and really press and work it down onto the material. 0. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. While the folks at Escape Pod were willing to make everything right, the time delay and deficiency list would have me source out another printer on my next build.

This is the remake of the original Donky Kong arcade game.

While time consuming to print, cut and tape the black-and-white graphics, this proved advantageous as there were some discrepancies that I needed to square away. As an aside, I could have just had a new graphic printed locally and picked up a piece of acrylic since I now have the tools to drill out the holes. Take your time! With everything checking out, it was time to send my artwork over to the folks over at Escape Pod. Next, I added the 1/4″ plywood strips to the marquee area which serve as a support for the plexiglass and then she was ready for primer and paint. Please make it available for purchase. Due to the vinyl being so thick, the 90 degree ‘fold-over’ caused the vinyl to lift slightly in some areas along the edges.

I created my artwork about 1″ bigger than the cabinet dimensions so that I’d have some room to trim. I used 1×2 pine that I ripped down (3/4″ x 3/4″)  but as mentioned earlier, if I were to do this project again, I’d pick up the Kreg K4MS Pocket Hole Jig – this is currently in my Amazon ‘wish-list’. I absolutely love this program as you can quickly render 3D models and bring your ideas to life in a few evenings. If I were to do this build again, I’d invest in an HVLP gun like this one from Neiko for a quicker job and better control (not to mention, it would keep the costs down as rattle cans aren’t cheap!). The objective is for James Bond to pursue the antagonist... Wizard and the Princess (also The Wizard and the Princess, with a leading article) is a graphic adventure game written for... Achtung, die Kurve!, also known as Curve Fever or simply Achtung, is a freeware, multiplayer DOS computer game. The finish actually works really well with the cab (as you’ll see at the end), and I’m glad I went with it. Assembling the cabinet on it’s side made it easy to line everything up and double check fitment of all my pieces. For spray, I highly recommend picking up the Rustoleum Spray Grip for better control of the spray. With the glue setting up on the arcade base, it was time to start laying out my batons to affix my panels together. I screwed up with my rabbet as my G1S plywood has the good side, inside. Plus, I didn’t want to screw up once the cabinet was glued together! This way, if the same thing happens or if I ever need to replace the acrylic due to scratches or damage, the artwork won’t be compromised.

There’s a “DK” on the front neck too, to match his necktie. Rob does some amazing work as well. First, there are literally hundreds of arcade plans out there ranging from classic reproductions of Galaga and Space Invaders to Donkey Kong 3 and Mario Brothers, and countless other amazing ‘MAME’ arcades which run thousands of games and have some stunning artwork. The 1981 arcade platform game from Nintendo. I set up a stop block on either end of each slot and basically just took my time and made several passes removing a little material at a time. From arcade builds to MGB restoration and woodworking projects to tech tips, woodworking and graphic design, I’ll be showcasing what I think is cool – hopefully you’ll find something cool as well. I decided to continue on, screwed and glued down my base top from the underside, clamped her up and let sit overnight. The dimensions for the bezel were completely off. This was a good idea in theory but the slightest bit of tugging distorted the artwork, rendering it useless. The great thing about this monitor is that it has an adjustable folding arm and also swivels, making alignment a snap as I didn’t need to figure out the exact angle when installing my monitor shelf. Day 6 was spent mirroring the batons on the second side. NOTE: It’s far easier to do this with the panels lying flat than trying to run the T-mold slot vertically on a finished product.

Anticipation brimmed as I waited for the unit to arrive and introduce my young daughters to some arcade classics. This time, I’m having the control panel artwork printed separately on a low-sheen vinyl, which I’ll just place below the acrylic versus being reverse-printed and affixed to the acrylic.

You can see these reference marks in the design proof above.

Donkey Kong himself is a mix of the current Kong with the 1981 original and the 1982 Donkey Kong … For the most part, I used my plans for the main panel layout, but I also departed from the plans a little when laying out the back batons in particular. As far as the paint goes, again, I opted for Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Gloss Orange and couldn’t be happier with the end result. Here’s a photo gallery of the build so far: With much of the build complete, it was time to start thinking about getting the graphics printed. However, I ran into the same problem. Today I applied the 3M artwork that I purchased from Escape Pod to the sides of the cabinet. Once done, I laid the baton sides together to feel and double check that all was reflected perfectly. As this will dictate the alignment and everything being square, it was vital to take the time to double check all measurements. Many thanks to the creators of Atari, Sega, Turbo Grafix and all the game makers who helped build great childhood memories. One thing I would recommend is to pre-drill the batons in place and drill right into the MDF. This did mean some cutting and pasting but the time was well worth it and started to bring the cab to life.

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